THE EPIDERMIS

The epidermis is the outer layer of the skin, which is in direct contact with the surrounding environment. Its structure resembles a solid, carefully built wall. That is its function – it protects us from moisture loss, toxins and bacteria. The cells that make up the skins are known as keratinocytes. They are arranged in layers and strictly adhere to each other, and thus they can be compared to bricks. They are tightly linked together by intercellular cement, which can be compared to mortar.

The outermost layer of the epidermis is the stratum corneum. This is the final destination of epidermal cells that are subject to the process of keratinization, which is the migration from the basal layer in the epidermis (the deepest layer) to the stratum corneum.This is where epidermal cells finish their journey and undergo exfoliation. They are bound by stratum corneum lipids that play a key role in maintaining skin hydration, which is necessary for its proper functioning.

The epidermal surface is covered by a kind of natural emulsion – the hydrolipid film. It is composed of a mixture of water and fats derived from the secretions of the sebaceous glands and sweat glands located in the deeper layer of the skin. Just like plaster covering a wall, it protects the skin against external factors, mainly against harmful bacteria, and provides favourable conditions for the formation of lipids, which are key for healthy skin. It is hard to believe that the epidermis, where there are so many complex physiological and defense processes going on, has a thickness of only approx. 0.1 mm! It is also the most important layer of the skin in terms of skin care – consciously chosen cosmetics will provide it with the necessary components and will support its function.

THE DERMIS

The dermis is the layer located just under the surface of the epidermis. It is a bustling factory of important building block substances, and its dense and compact structure is ideal for absorbing external shocks. The blood vessels and sensory receptors located in this layer cause that damage to it results in pain and bleeding. The most characteristic cells of the dermis are fibroblasts. They are responsible for the production of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid – basic building blocks, which, like a scaffolding support the entire structure of the skin and give it tremendous strength, flexibility and elasticity.

SUBCUTANEOUS TISSUE

The subcutaneous tissue is the deepest layer of the skin. Is called the adipose tissue. It consists of adipocytes – cells that can accumulate and store fat inside themselves. As a result, the subcutaneous tissue functions as an extremely efficient storage area and is an important source of energy for the body. It is also provides effective protection of the deeper situated organs – it absorbs external shocks. Its presence gives softness to our body of softness, highlights beautiful shapes, and on cold days effectively insulates against excessive heat loss.

The most important functions of the skin are the result of what potentially threatens our body:

• This is the first line of defense against air pollution, allergens, harmful chemicals – the skin is a shield that defends against their interference in our body.
• This is a natural shield that retains water in the depths of the skin – the NMF components that it contains (natural moisturizer factor) combine with water and prevent drying, tightness and itching of the skin, maintaining its flexibility, firmness and healthy.
• It is a flexible shield – it protects muscles and fascia against pressure, impact or friction thanks to the subcutaneous tissue and fat cells that form it which act as a shock absorber.
• The slightly acidic pH of the hydrolipidic film and stratum corneum is natural protection against bacteria, viruses and fungi. If they manage to overcome this passive barrier, the skin starts immunological processes that actively combat microorganisms that are dangerous to the body’s health.
• The skin also protects against harmful UV rays by producing melanin, which absorbs and reflects UV radiation. To defend itself more effectively, the skin thickens in areas particularly exposed to radiation.
• Fat cells are responsible for the process of thermoregulation – they insulate the body from excessive cold and heat. A sudden and significant change in temperature triggers defense mechanisms. The skin produces sweat to cool the body and constricts blood vessels to keep the heat in the body.
• Although the feeling of pain is not a pleasant sensation, it enables us to quickly respond to actions against our body. The ability to feel also brings joy – sensitive touch, warmth or tickling are pleasant.
• The skin also has an important psychological and social function. Well-cared-for and healthy skin improves the comfort of interaction with others, the sense of your own attractiveness and self-confidence.

HOW DOES THE SKIN BECOME SENSITIZED?

When the protective layer of the skin weakens and skin cells do not adhere well to each other, the skin becomes leaky. Consequently, various substances that damage cells penetrate it, causing inflammation and allergic reactions, and its surface copes worse with protecting against mechanical damage and weather conditions. Sensitized skin also loses more moisture.

WHAT CAUSES THE SKIN TO BECOME SENSITIZED?

Both external and internal factors have an effect on the skin. The skin barrier may be weakened by pollution and atmospheric factors. Sensitization can be caused by sudden significant temperature changes, frost, wind, hot air, sunlight, car pollution and smog. An unhealthy lifestyle also contributes to the deterioration of the skin – a bad diet, lack of exercise and drugs lead to the weakening of its condition.

HOW TO PROTECT YOUR SKIN?

In order for the skin to successfully defend the body, you should take care of its proper functioning. Therefore conscious care requires knowledge of skin structure, the way it works and the risks that can disrupt its balance. Wrongly chosen means and methods may actually contribute to an increased risk of manifestations indicative of sensitization of the skin.

How can you make sure that you are helping your skin?

• Be systematic – regular application of the cream in the morning and evening and gentle skin cleansing is the key!
• Make conscious decisions – it may turn out that not every cosmetic ingredient is friendly your skin.

The term “dermatology” is derived from the Greek word “derma” = skin. It is a branch of medicine dealing with the study and description of the structure and function of the skin, as well as diseases of the skin and its appendages (hair and nails), and certain systemic diseases manifesting themselves on the skin (eg. benign and malignant tumors of the skin and subcutaneous tissue).

Fields derived from dermatology and related to it are:

• Cosmetology,

• Dermatological allergology,

• Medical aesthetology (including aesthetic medicine),

• Dermatologic surgery (skin surgery),

• Psychodermatology.

The way in which various fields study the skin is different in terms of their specific nature.

COSMETOLOGY

Cosmetology is a field of dermatology, which is based on the methodology of the natural sciences (chemistry, biology, biophysics, medicine), sociology, psychology and aesthetics. Cosmetologists are involved in caring for and increasing the attractiveness and aesthetics of the body by using cosmetic products and non-invasive methods without interrupting the continuity of the skin (e.g. massages, needleless mesotherapy, cavitation peeling, microdermabrasion). This field of knowledge also studies the condition of the hair and nails. Cosmetologists are not doctors, but they are persons with higher cosmetology education.

DERMATOLOGICAL ALLERGOLOGY

Dermatological allergology combines elements of dermatology and allergology. Its aim is to help patients whose skin shows alarming symptoms, such as damage to the lipid layer of the skin, itching, redness, irritation. Discomfort due to excessive skin reactivity makes daily functioning very difficult. Dermatologists and allergists are involved in this area.

MEDICAL AESTHETOLOGY

Medical aesthetology (includingaesthetic medicine) is a medical field focused on taking care of the healthy and beautiful appearance of the body, when we want a strong and long-lasting way to improve and change the condition of the skin, significantly rejuvenate it and strongly act preventively against wrinkles. A doctor of aesthetic medicine achieves these aims with the help of drugs and proprietary medicinal products, as well as by performing invasive procedures, among others by breaking the skin barrier, which means physicians have to have the right to practice the profession.

DERMATOLOGIC SURGERY

Dermatologic surgery (skin surgery) combines elements of dermatology, plastic surgery, cancer surgery and reconstruction of the skin, vascular surgery. It specialises in surgical operations in the treatment of skin diseases and subcutaneous tissue. It is practiced by dermatologists, who have received appropriate training, or surgical surgeons and plastic surgeons associated with dermatological centres.

PSYCHODERMATOLOGY

Psychodermatology is a relatively new field, which was established on the border of dermatology and psychology. This field was created from the knowledge that the psyche and the body form a whole. Studies on people with skin problems going to dermatologists show that in many people skin changes coexist with mental difficulties and disorders. This allows for a holistic view of the patient and treatment not only of the symptoms of the skin, but also of causes that have a psychological background and helping patients with psychological problems arising from their skin diseases.

A large group of scientists from many fields focuses on the health of the skin and its appearance. Their common denominator is the skin, its health and beautiful appearance.

MOISTURIZING INGREDIENTS

Moisturizing is a multi-level process. To increase the moisture level of the skin, the evaporation of water from the skin has to be minimized (TEWL = Transepidermal Water Loss) and water in the stratum corneum has to be retained.

Moisturizing ingredients– they remain on the surface of the skin by creating a protective layer that retains water:

regenerating ingredients – naturally occurring in the skin, modifying and strengthening the protective barrier of the skin:

ingredients binding water on the surface of the epidermis: